Beijing's Hip Houhai Lake [Beijing]

Scores of trendy restaurants, bars and boutiques have sprouted along the shores of this old Imperial Lake, north of Tiananmen Square and the Forbidden City. But the coolest new district in the capital isn't just currently hip, it has been for decades.

Years ago, this leafy lakeside neighborhood north of Tiananmen Square attracted only park-goers, weekend fishermen, or ice skaters, depending on the season. Then, the open of No Name bar (that's how it came to be called; it had no sign, but filled up via word-of-mouth), set for a new generation of stylish establishments.

Since then, the Bohemian area has gone upscale, Yuppified, and emerged as the capital's coolest neighborhood, with scores of bars, restaurants, and boutiques catering to the city's smart set.

Of course, trendy districts come and go; that's the pattern of gentrification around the globe. But it applies here only on the surface. Houhai has been hip for centuries.

Houhai and adjoining lakes Xihai and Qianhai- collectively known as the Back Lakes were dug out in the Yuan Dynasty (14th century) to berth barges from the Grand Canal, bringing goods from around China and beyond to the Emperor in his nearby Forbidden City. The proximity to the palace explains much of Houhai's still-evident charm - the arched stone bridges, intricate animal sculptures on canal walls.

However, the distance from the palace was just as important in shaping life around the lakes. These Back Lakes rapidly became a retreat, for courtiers, poets, painters. And a favorite of the masses.

"In Search of Old Beijing," a 1930s guidebook, describes the scene: "During summer months this "Sea" is a favorite resort of the lower classes who come here in the thousands to take the air and to spend the day in the numerous tea-houses along its banks listening to the story-tellers, ballad singers or other musical entertainment."

China's last emperor, Puyi, was born in a mansion nearby. Another siheyuan (courtyard house) was the longtime residence of Song Qingling, wife of Sun Yat-sen. Both are now museums, popular stops on neighborhood rickshaw tours. Expansive gardens and ponds provide a taste of what life was like in the old China.

Decades on, Hou Hai claims some of the best bites and cappuccinos in the capital.

Bar No Name has no address either, although it's easy to find Houhai's original Cathedral of Cool: just look for the vine-covered wooden hut south of the charmingly arched Yinding Bridge. Its wicker chairs, funky decor, and a wide range of teas and drinks, from juices to margaritas, still draw in Beijing's A-list.

Lotus Not to be confused with Lotus Lane, this bar with separate restaurant in the winding alley leading to the Drum Tower (Gu Lou) remains one of the area's original zen centers. The two-story tower bar has a good collection of crafts on display downstairs, pillow and couch seating upstairs with a nice atrium. Smells of incense and one of the best drinks menus on the lake.